A Complete Guide to Visiting Tomonoura — The Edo-Era Port Town That Inspired *Ponyo*
Table of Contents
- Why Tomonoura Deserves a Place on Your Japan Itinerary
- A Brief History: 2,000 Years on the Seto Inland Sea
- Top Things to Do in Tomonoura
- Where to Eat: Tomonoura's Best Meals
- Sensui-jima: The Island Just Five Minutes Away
- Getting to Tomonoura
- Practical Information & Tips
- Where to Stay: Making Tomonoura Your Base
Section 1: Why Tomonoura Deserves a Place on Your Japan Itinerary {#section-1}
On a map, Tomonoura (鞆の浦) is a small mark on Hiroshima Prefecture's southern coast — a fishing town of barely 3,000 residents, built around a natural harbor that has sheltered boats from the Seto Inland Sea for two millennia. It does not appear on most tourists' itineraries. The bullet train does not stop here. There is no towering castle, no UNESCO stamp, no famous ramen chain.
What Tomonoura has instead is something far rarer in Japan's most-visited regions: completeness.
Walking its seafront, you are walking through a townscape that has remained fundamentally unchanged since the Edo period. The stone seawalls were built by hand in the 17th century. The wooden warehouses that line the harbor — the funa-yado, or boat inns, that once housed sailors waiting for the tides — still stand as they were built, their dark timbers weathered to the color of old tea. The narrow lanes behind the waterfront wind uphill past small temples, sliding-door shops, and gardens where persimmon trees lean over mossy walls.
This is the town that Hayao Miyazaki saw, fell in love with, and used as the inspiration for Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea (2008). He came to Tomonoura to think. He stayed long enough to buy a house. The film's visual vocabulary — the half-timbered harbor buildings, the curved bay, the surrounding hills, the way the sea catches the light in the late afternoon — is drawn directly from what you will see when you arrive.
For the traveler who has already done Kyoto and Hiroshima and Nara and wants to understand what Japan looks like when it has not been organized for your arrival, Tomonoura is the answer.
Section 2: A Brief History — 2,000 Years on the Seto Inland Sea {#section-2}
Tomonoura's harbor occupies a unique geographical position: it sits at a point where the tidal currents of the Seto Inland Sea reverse, creating a natural waiting area where ships heading east or west would pause for the tide to turn in their favor. This phenomenon — called tomarifune (停泊船), the "waiting ships" — gave the town both its name (tomo meaning "friend" or "meeting point") and its historical identity.
Every important figure who traveled the Seto Inland Sea by ship passed through Tomonoura at some point. The poet and monk Kukai (Kōbō Daishi), founder of Shingon Buddhism, stopped here in the 9th century. Korean diplomatic missions (Joseon Tongsinsa) rested here on their journeys to Edo, and the reception pavilion built for them — Taichoro at Fukuzenji Temple — still stands above the harbor, with a view that the Korean envoy described as "the most beautiful in Japan."
In the late 16th century, Toyotomi Hideyoshi used Tomonoura as a staging point for his Korean campaigns. Tokugawa Ieyasu stopped here after the Battle of Sekigahara. The town's strategic importance brought wealth, and with wealth came the construction of the warehouses, temples, and sea walls that still define its character today.
By the mid-20th century, Tomonoura had become something that urban planners rarely permit: a town that time simply declined to modernize. A planned development that would have reclaimed part of the harbor was halted after decades of community resistance. Today, the result of that resistance is a living Edo townscape — not a reconstruction, not a theme park, but the actual thing.
Section 3: Top Things to Do in Tomonoura {#section-3}
Walk the Waterfront
Begin at the harbor. The working fishing boats that put out each morning return by mid-morning with the day's catch; if you arrive early enough, you will see the fish being transferred at the quayside, and the smell of the sea is clean and sharp.
Walk south along the waterfront road, taking time to read the small explanatory boards (available in English) that describe the history of the funa-yado warehouses. At the southern end of the harbor, the stone breakwaters curve out into the bay in a shape that was engineered in the 1680s and has not been altered since.
Fukuzenji Temple & Taichoro Pavilion
Fukuzenji is a small temple perched above the harbor's northern end. Climb the stone steps and enter the reception room of the Taichoro Pavilion (¥200 entry), which frames the view of the bay and the island of Sensui-jima in a composition that a Korean diplomat in 1711 called "the finest vista in all of Japan's three kingdoms." The view has not changed. On a clear day, the islands are stacked in layers of blue toward the horizon, and the fishing boats move slowly between them like brushstrokes.
This is one of the most quietly extraordinary views in western Japan, and because Tomonoura is not on the standard tourist circuit, you may have the pavilion entirely to yourself.
Ioji Temple & the Camphor Tree
Ioji (医王寺), dedicated to the protection of sailors, stands on a small hill behind the harbor with a flight of stone steps leading to a garden dominated by an ancient camphor tree. The tree's canopy is large enough to provide shade for a dozen people; its roots have split the old stone paving into soft irregular shapes. The view from Ioji's terrace over the harbor and out to the islands is excellent — and, unlike Taichoro, free.
The Edo-Period Seawalls
The stone seawalls and breakwaters (jo-no-ishi) that protect Tomonoura's harbor are among the best-preserved examples of pre-modern coastal engineering in Japan. The largest of them, the Jotobashi sea gate, dates to 1674 and required an estimated 70,000 workers to construct. Walking along the outer wall — which you can do for free, at any time — with the sea on one side and the old town on the other is among the most atmospheric experiences the town offers.
Taichoro Historical Quarter & Edo-Era Street
Behind the waterfront, a tight grid of narrow lanes contains some of Tomonoura's most photogenic architecture. The Tomonoura Historical and Folklore Museum (entrance fee applies; English explanations available) is housed in the old local government building and provides context for the artifacts and photographs that document the town's trading history.
The streets between the museum and Fukuzenji are particularly worth wandering without a specific destination: small shotengai (shopping arcades) sell locally made homeishu (a traditional herbal sake that has been produced in Tomonoura since the 17th century), dried sea bream, and handicrafts.
The Ponyo Connection
For fans of the film, the connections are everywhere once you start looking. The curved bay, the cliffs to the north, the stone retaining walls, the fishing boats — all of it appears, reimagined and animated, in Ponyo. A small gallery near the harbor waterfront displays production materials and contextualizes the town's relationship with the film. The house that Miyazaki rented while working on the project is privately owned and not open to visitors, but it is visible from the road.
Section 4: Where to Eat — Tomonoura's Best Meals {#section-4}
Tai Ryori (Sea Bream Cuisine)
Tomonoura has been famous for its sea bream (tai) since the Nara period, when it was sent as tribute to the imperial court. The local specialty is tai-zuke-don — slices of raw sea bream marinated in a blend of soy sauce and sesame, served over warm rice. It is simple, clean, and deeply satisfying.
Several restaurants along the harbor serve this dish. Arrive by 11:30 on weekdays, or 11:00 on weekends, to avoid the lunchtime queue. Most do not take reservations for small groups.
Note for the adventurous: Tomonoura is also known for tai chazuke (sea bream over rice with green tea poured over it, served at the end of a meal) and for tai sashimi prepared fresh from boats that morning. Ask what was caught that day.
Homeishu — Tomonoura's Medicinal Sake
Homeishu (保命酒) is a sweet, herb-infused sake that has been produced in Tomonoura since 1659. According to local legend, Tokugawa Mitsukuni (the historical figure sometimes conflated with Mito Komon) was so taken with the drink that he declared it a medicine of the highest order. Whether or not the legend is accurate, the drink is distinctive — amber, aromatic, with a flavor that is closer to a digestif than a standard sake.
Several of the original homeishu breweries (kuramoto) remain in operation and welcome visitors. The Nakamura Homeishu Brewery, which has operated from the same building since the 17th century, is the most accessible. Free tasting is available during business hours.
Section 5: Sensui-jima — The Island Just Five Minutes Away {#section-5}
A short ferry crossing (5 minutes; ferries depart from Tomonoura's main pier approximately every 30 minutes) brings you to Sensui-jima (仙酔島), a small, forested island whose name translates loosely as "the island where immortals get drunk on the scenery."
The island has a circular hiking trail (approximately 1.5 hours at a comfortable pace) that passes through coastal rock formations, cliff-side lookouts, and stretches of beach. The rocks along the island's north coast are composed of five colors of volcanic stone — crimson, black, blue, yellow, and green — an unusual geological formation that has been considered auspicious since ancient times.
There is one small inn on the island (Sensui-jima Kanko Hotel) and a public hot spring (Edo-period-style bathing facility). Most day visitors cross over for the hiking trail and return to Tomonoura for lunch.
Practical notes: The last ferry back to Tomonoura typically departs in mid-afternoon. Check the current schedule at the pier. The island has no convenience stores; bring water.
Section 6: Getting to Tomonoura {#section-6}
Tomonoura is on the Hiroshima Prefecture coast, 15 km south of central Fukuyama. It is not directly served by train.
From Fukuyama Station
The most straightforward approach is by car (15–20 minutes from Fukuyama Station) or by bus (Tomotetsu Bus, Tomonoura Line, approximately 30 minutes, ¥560 one-way; buses depart from Fukuyama Station South Exit, stop No. 9, approximately every 30 minutes).
Fukuyama Station is served by the JR Sanyo Shinkansen. Journey times:
- Tokyo → Fukuyama: approx. 3 hours 45 min
- Osaka → Fukuyama: approx. 55 min
- Hiroshima → Fukuyama: approx. 17 min
From Hiroshima City
Drive east on the San-yo Expressway to Fukuyama West IC (approx. 50 min), then south to Tomonoura (20 min). Total drive time from Hiroshima: approx. 70 min.
Alternatively: Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Fukuyama (17 min), then bus or taxi to Tomonoura.
Parking in Tomonoura
Tomonoura's streets are extremely narrow and not suitable for driving once you enter the old town. Use one of the designated parking areas on the town's northern approach road (signposted; fee applies on weekends and holidays). Walk from the car park to the harbor in under 10 minutes.
Note: Tomonoura's lanes were not designed for motor vehicles. On busy weekends, the streets around the waterfront become genuinely congested. The earliest practical arrival — before 9:30 — is strongly recommended for both photography and parking.
Section 7: Practical Information & Tips {#section-7}
| Best time to visit | Year-round; spring (cherry blossom, late March) and winter (quietest, clearest light) are ideal |
| How long to spend | Half-day minimum; full day if including Sensui-jima |
| Admission fees | Taichoro Pavilion (Fukuzenji): ¥200 / Historical Museum: ¥200 / Sensui-jima ferry: ~¥240 round trip |
| English signage | Limited but available at major sites. Google Maps works reliably. |
| ATMs | Limited. Withdraw cash at Fukuyama Station before arriving. |
| Shops & cafes | Open approximately 10:00–17:00; many close on Tuesdays |
| Crowds | Busy on weekends April–November; quiet on weekday mornings |
Photography Tips
The best light in Tomonoura is in the two hours after sunrise and the hour before sunset. The harbor faces roughly south-west, which means afternoon light illuminates the warehouses directly — the golden hour before sunset is exceptional for photographs of the old port.
The view from the Taichoro Pavilion at Fukuzenji is the single most photographically rewarding vantage point; arrive when it opens (typically 8:00–9:00; check ahead) for the best light and fewest people.
Section 8: Where to Stay — Making Tomonoura Your Slow Travel Base {#section-8}
Tomonoura itself has limited accommodation options — a small number of traditional inns and one hotel on Sensui-jima. For visitors who want the full depth of the Setouchi experience — the Shimanami Kaido to the east, Miyajima to the west, Onomichi to the northeast — a single base with access to all of these destinations makes far more sense than moving between hotels.
Setouchi OMOYA is 25 minutes from Tomonoura by car.
Staying at OMOYA, you can visit Tomonoura in the morning, be back at the farmhouse for the afternoon, and wake up the next day with the Shimanami Kaido or Onomichi as your next destination — without repacking, without checkout queues, without starting again from scratch.
OMOYA accommodates up to 12 guests in a 150-year-old private farmhouse in Fukuyama's Kumano district. It is the only accommodation in the region that combines:
- Complete privacy — one group at a time, no shared facilities
- Central positioning — within 90 minutes of Tomonoura, Shimanami Kaido, Miyajima, Kurashiki, and Onomichi
- Authentic rural character — bamboo grove, well water, wood-burning fireplace, satoyama landscape
- Pet-friendly — up to three dogs of any size welcome
For families, couples, and groups of up to twelve who want to travel slowly through Setouchi without sacrificing comfort or privacy, OMOYA is the base that makes the whole region accessible.
→ Read the full guide: The Ultimate Guide to Slow Travel in Setouchi: A 4-Day Itinerary from a Private Japanese Farmhouse
→ Book Setouchi OMOYA: setouchiomoya.com
Setouchi OMOYA — Kumano-cho, Fukuyama, Hiroshima. 25 minutes from Tomonoura. Reservations: chillnn.com/17689b2d20c282 | info@setouchiomoya.com
Last updated: February 2026
