Cycling the Shimanami Kaido: The Complete Day Trip Guide from Fukuyama

2月24日

What Is the Shimanami Kaido?
Why Start from Fukuyama?
Choosing Your Route: How Far Should You Cycle?
Where to Rent a Bicycle
Island by Island: What to See Along the Way
Where to Eat on the Shimanami Kaido
Getting Back: Ferry & Bus Return Options
Practical Tips for a Great Day
Where to Stay: A Base That Makes It All Easier

Section 1: What Is the Shimanami Kaido? {#section-1}

There are cycle routes, and then there is the Shimanami Kaido.

Stretching 70 kilometers across six islands between Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture and Imabari in Ehime, Shikoku, the Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道) is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful cycling experiences in the world. National Geographic Traveler named it one of its top cycling destinations. CNN Travel called it Japan's best cycling route. Lonely Planet placed it on its list of great Asia adventures.

The route follows a series of suspension bridges — each one an engineering spectacle in its own right — that hop between the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. The bridges have dedicated cycling lanes, and at each landfall the route descends to island roads where lemon trees grow on terraced hillsides, fishing boats sit in small harbors, and the pace of life seems calibrated to something closer to your cycling speed than to the world you left behind on the mainland.

On the water on either side, the Seto Inland Sea opens out in its characteristic way: calm, island-dotted, luminous in good weather, with the particular quality of light that comes from sunlight diffused through sea air over protected water. The comparison to the Mediterranean is not poetic exaggeration. It is simply accurate.

Section 2: Why Start from Fukuyama? {#section-2}

Most travel guides route the Shimanami Kaido from Onomichi — a charming city of steep lanes and temple cats that serves as the northern gateway of the cycle route. But for travelers staying in the Fukuyama area, Onomichi is not the starting line. It is a 35-minute drive from Setouchi OMOYA, and a staging point, not a destination in itself.

This matters for several reasons.

First, it makes the Shimanami Kaido a genuine day trip, not an overnight detour. You can drive to Onomichi in the morning, cycle as far as the island of Ikuchi-jima (approx. 30 km one way), return by ferry to Onomichi, and be back at OMOYA in time for the bamboo bath before dinner — with the whole route fitting comfortably into a single day.

Second, starting from Fukuyama rather than Hiroshima gives you significantly more time on the bicycle. From Hiroshima city, the drive to Onomichi takes 80–90 minutes; from OMOYA, it is 35 minutes. That hour and a half, on a day when you are paying per kilometer of island scenery, is not a small difference.

Third — and this is the point that most guides overlook — the Shimanami Kaido is best experienced from the east. Beginning in Onomichi and cycling southwest means cycling toward Shikoku with the morning light behind you and the broad view of the inland sea opening ahead. The landmark bridges are encountered in ascending order of drama. The return ferry from Setoda (Ikuchi-jima) to Onomichi, in late afternoon, has the islands lit from the west. It is the better direction.

Section 3: Choosing Your Route — How Far Should You Cycle? {#section-3}

The full Shimanami Kaido is 70 km one-way. For a day trip, the realistic options depend on your cycling fitness and how much time you want to spend on and off the bike.

Option A: Onomichi → Setoda, Ikuchi-jima (Recommended)

Distance: ~~30 km one-way | Cycling time: 2.5–3.5 hours | Return: Ferry from Setoda to Onomichi (~~1 hour)

This is the recommended day-trip route for most visitors. You cross the first two major bridges (Onomichi Bridge via ferry, then Innoshima Bridge and Ikuchi Bridge), arrive on the lemon island of Ikuchi-jima, and have 2–3 hours to explore Setoda before the afternoon ferry back. The route is entirely manageable for cyclists of moderate fitness, and the scenery escalates satisfyingly with each bridge.

Option B: Onomichi → Hakata, Omishima (Full Day, Experienced Cyclists)

Distance: ~~45 km one-way | Cycling time: 4–5 hours | Return: Bus from Omishima to Onomichi (~~75 min)

Extends the route by one more island. Omishima is home to Oyamazumi Shrine, one of the oldest shrines in Japan and historically the most important in the Seto Inland Sea. The journey to Omishima and back is achievable in a long day, but requires an early start (leave Onomichi by 8:30 at the latest) and comfortable cycling fitness.

Option C: Just the First Island — Innoshima (Half Day, Easy)

Distance: ~13 km one-way | Cycling time: 1–1.5 hours | Return: Cycle back or bus

For those who want the experience of the Shimanami Kaido without a full-day commitment — or for groups with children — cycling across the Onomichi Channel by ferry and then over Innoshima Bridge onto Innoshima provides the experience of the route in a condensed form. Innoshima's Suigun Castle and coastal cycling paths are genuinely worth a morning.

Section 4: Where to Rent a Bicycle {#section-4}

Rental bicycles are available at multiple points along the Shimanami Kaido, with the option to return the bike at a different location from where you rented it (one-way rental, 乗り捨て).

Giant Store Onomichi (Recommended)

Location: Onomichi Station, 3-minute walk from the South Exit
Opening hours: 8:00–18:00 (closed Tuesdays)
Bikes: High-quality Giant road and hybrid bikes in multiple frame sizes
Price: From approximately ¥2,000–¥3,000/day depending on bike type
Reservation: Strongly recommended, especially on weekends and Japanese holidays. Book online at giant-store.jp at least a few days in advance.
Notes: Staff speak basic English. Helmets, locks, and basic repair kits provided.

Giant Store Setoda (Ikuchi-jima)

If you are planning to cycle one-way and return by ferry, you can also pick up or drop off a bike at the Giant Store in Setoda. This is useful if your group wants to skip the first section and start from the islands.

Municipal Rental Cycle (Shimanami Cycle Okan)

The Hiroshima and Ehime prefectural governments operate a network of rental cycle terminals at major points along the route (Onomichi, each island, Imabari). These offer more basic bicycles at lower prices but without the equipment quality of Giant. One-way rental is available across the network.

Tip: E-bikes (electric assist bicycles) are increasingly available at most rental stations and are highly recommended for less experienced cyclists or for anyone planning the longer routes. The bridges are long and the gradients on the island roads can be demanding in warm weather; the electric assist transforms the experience.

Section 5: Island by Island — What to See Along the Way {#section-5}

Onomichi (尾道) — Departure Point

Arrive at Onomichi Station by 8:30 to collect your bicycle, eat a bowl of Onomichi Ramen at one of the small shops near the station, and board the short passenger ferry to Mukaishima (向島). The cycling route proper begins here.

Do not plan to spend significant time in Onomichi before cycling — the town deserves its own dedicated half-day (temples, the hillside cat alley, the old bookshop street), and that is best combined with a non-cycling day or the afternoon of your return.

Innoshima (因島) — The Pirate Island

The Murakami Pirates (Murakami Suigun), who controlled the shipping lanes of the Seto Inland Sea for two centuries during the Muromachi period, made their home base on Innoshima. Innoshima Suigun Castle — a striking white reconstruction perched on a forested hill — commands views across the western approaches of the strait they once patrolled.

Innoshima is also known for its habutae mochi (a soft, chewy rice cake dusted with soybean flour) and for the views from the Innoshima Bridge service road, which allows cyclists to walk out over the suspension cables for a vertiginous view of the strait below.

Ikuchi-jima (生口島) — The Lemon Island

Ikuchi-jima is where most day-trippers turn around, and for good reason: it is the route's most concentrated island for both food and culture.

Kosanji Temple (耕三寺) is an extraordinary complex of art and architecture on the island's north coast, built in the 20th century by a successful industrialist as a tribute to his mother. The complex recreates structures from major temples across Japan — the Nikko Toshogu, the Phoenix Hall of Byodoin — in compressed, almost dreamlike form. It is unusual, somewhat overwhelming, and unmissable.

Adjacent to Kosanji, the Hill of Hope (Kibou no Oka) is an outdoor sculpture park dominated by a marble-white landscape that glows eerily in afternoon sun. The views from the top extend across the entire western Setouchi.

Setoda (瀬戸田) is the island's main town, with a compact historic center and a quayside lined with restaurants, ice cream stands selling lemon-flavored everything, and the ferry terminal for the return to Onomichi.

Section 6: Where to Eat on the Shimanami Kaido {#section-6}

On the Bike Route

Several small roadside stalls operate along the cycle path, particularly on Innoshima and Ikuchi-jima, selling:

Lemon drinks and lemon ice cream — Ikuchi-jima grows the majority of Hiroshima Prefecture's lemons; everything lemon-flavored here is the genuine article
Tako-yaki and yakitori at makeshift stalls near bridge access points
Vending machines — strategically positioned every 5–10 km along the route; bring a small bag of yen coins

In Setoda, Ikuchi-jima

The quayside restaurants in Setoda serve seafood lunches from approximately 11:00–14:00. The catch of the day — typically sea bream, octopus, and small shellfish — arrives that morning. A set lunch (teishoku) of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup costs approximately ¥1,200–¥1,800. Most restaurants close or reduce service after 14:30.

Plan your arrival in Setoda for 12:00–13:00 to have time for lunch before the afternoon ferry.

Before You Leave Onomichi

If time allows on your return, Onomichi Ramen at one of the harbor-front shops is the ideal way to close the day. The city has been producing its distinctive dark soy broth — enriched with back-fat, unique to this stretch of coast — for over a century. You will have earned it.

Section 7: Getting Back — Ferry & Bus Return Options {#section-7}

Ferry: Setoda (Ikuchi-jima) → Onomichi

The most popular return option for day-trippers cycling to Ikuchi-jima. Ferries depart from Setoda port approximately every 40–60 minutes between 09:00 and 17:30. The journey takes approximately 60 minutes.

Bicycle fee: Standard bicycles accepted; additional charge applies (approximately ¥200–¥500 depending on bike type)
Last ferry: Check the current schedule; the last afternoon departure is typically around 17:00–17:30
Booking: No advance reservation required; purchase tickets at the pier

Bus: Setoda → Onomichi

Highway buses connect Setoda to Onomichi (and onward to Fukuyama) and can carry folded/boxed bicycles. Check the current schedule with the ferry terminal staff.

Cycling Back (One-Way Rental Not Required)

If you have rented from a terminal that allows same-terminal return, cycling back is of course an option — but note that the return journey covers the same 30 km you have already cycled, with the same bridge gradients in the opposite direction. For most day-trippers, the ferry is the more enjoyable ending.

Section 8: Practical Tips for a Great Day {#section-8}

Start early. The Shimanami Kaido becomes significantly more crowded from 10:00 onward, particularly at the bridge access ramps and in Setoda. Leaving Onomichi by 8:30 gives you the best light, the quietest roads, and time for a relaxed lunch.

Book the bicycle in advance. Giant Store Onomichi regularly sells out its rental inventory on weekends and golden week. If you are planning to cycle on a Saturday, Sunday, or Japanese national holiday, reserve online at least 3–5 days ahead.

Check the weather. The Shimanami Kaido is rideable in light rain (the bridges are exposed, but the island roads are sheltered), but the scenery — the whole point — is best in clear weather. If possible, build flexibility into your itinerary to move the cycling day if the forecast is poor.

Sun protection is essential. The bridges are fully exposed, and the sea light intensifies UV radiation considerably. Apply high-SPF sunscreen before you start, bring a cap that fits under your helmet, and carry water. In summer, dehydration is a real risk on the longer stretches.

Dress in layers. Mornings on the bridges can be cool regardless of the season, and temperatures drop again in the late afternoon when you are no longer generating heat from cycling. A light wind-proof layer packs small and matters at the top of Innoshima Bridge.

Cash. While larger restaurants and tourist facilities on the islands accept credit cards, roadside stalls, ferry tickets, and smaller eating places are often cash-only. ¥5,000–¥10,000 in cash per person is comfortable.

Section 9: Where to Stay — A Base That Makes It All Easier {#section-9}

The Shimanami Kaido is the kind of experience that, done well, justifies an entire trip to Japan. But "done well" typically means arriving rested, leaving early, and coming back to somewhere genuinely restorative after a long day on the bike.

Setouchi OMOYA is 35 minutes from Onomichi by car.

That means you can leave OMOYA at 7:30, collect your bicycle in Onomichi by 8:15, be on the water by 8:30, cycle to Ikuchi-jima, take the afternoon ferry back, pick up the car, and be soaking in the bamboo bath at OMOYA before 19:00.

OMOYA is a 150-year-old private farmhouse in Fukuyama's Kumano district, accommodating up to 12 guests exclusively. The kitchen is fully equipped for post-ride cooking; the fireside entrance hall is an ideal place for sore legs and cold drinks; and the tent sauna with its well-water cold plunge is, after a day of cycling in the Setouchi sun, arguably the finest recovery facility in western Japan.

For groups — whether cycling friends, families, or couples traveling together — OMOYA's combination of proximity to the Shimanami Kaido, complete privacy, and satoyama atmosphere makes it the natural choice for anyone who wants to make this route the centerpiece of a Setouchi itinerary.

→ Full Setouchi itinerary: The Ultimate Guide to Slow Travel in Setouchi: A 4-Day Itinerary from a Private Japanese Farmhouse

→ About Setouchi OMOYA: setouchiomoya.com

→ Book your stay: chillnn.com/17689b2d20c282

Quick Reference: Shimanami Kaido Day Trip from Fukuyama / OMOYA


Drive to Onomichi from OMOYA	~35 min by car
Recommended route	Onomichi → Setoda (Ikuchi-jima)
One-way cycling distance	~30 km
Cycling time (one-way)	2.5–3.5 hours (leisurely pace)
Return to Onomichi	Ferry from Setoda (~60 min)
Recommended departure from OMOYA	7:30–8:00
Recommended bicycle	Giant Store Onomichi (reserve in advance)
Total day length	9–10 hours including drive, cycling, lunch, and ferry
Best season	March–June, September–November
Fitness level required	Moderate (E-bike available for easier experience)

Setouchi OMOYA — Kumano-cho, Fukuyama, Hiroshima. 35 minutes from Onomichi / Shimanami Kaido. Reservations: chillnn.com/17689b2d20c282 | info@setouchiomoya.com

Last updated: February 2026

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