The Ultimate Guide to Slow Travel in Setouchi: A 4-Day Itinerary from a Private Japanese Farmhouse

著者 INCROCCE

Table of Contents

  1. Why Slow Travel in Setouchi?
  2. Setouchi OMOYA — More Than a Place to Sleep
  3. The Perfect 4-Day / 3-Night Itinerary
  4. Seasonal Highlights: When to Visit
  5. Getting Here & Getting Around
  6. Stay with Purpose: How Your Visit Helps Preserve Japan's Satoyama
  7. FAQ

Section 1: Why Slow Travel in Setouchi? {#section-1}

There is a Japan that most visitors never see.

It is not the Japan of bullet trains and vending machines, of neon-lit nights in Tokyo or shoulder-to-shoulder crowds at Kyoto's Fushimi Inari. It is a quieter Japan — one of bamboo groves sighing in the morning breeze, of farmhouses that have weathered a century and a half of seasons, of coastal towns where time seems to have agreed, by mutual consent, to slow down.

This is the Japan of Setouchi.

Stretching across the calm, island-dotted waters between Honshu and Shikoku, the Setouchi region has earned a reputation among discerning travelers as one of the most soulful destinations in Asia. Travel + Leisure called it "The Mediterranean of Japan" — a comparison that holds not just for its mild climate and olive-studded hillsides, but for its unhurried, pleasure-centered way of life. Forbes hailed it as one of Japan's most "under-the-radar" destinations, precisely because the crowds have not yet arrived in force.

They will. But for now, the window is open.

The Rise of the Slow Traveler

A profound shift is underway in how the world's most experienced travelers approach Japan. According to Hoshino Resorts' 2026 Inbound Travel Report — the most comprehensive study of its kind, drawing on over 1.33 million guest nights — travelers from the UK and US now spend an average of 3.76 and 3.72 nights respectively at a single property. They are not rushing from highlight to highlight. They are staying. They are lingering. They are choosing depth over breadth.

This is the slow traveler: someone who would rather understand one place deeply than photograph twenty places superficially. Someone who prefers to wake up to birdsong and spend an afternoon doing nothing in particular, rather than queuing for another landmark.

If you are reading this guide, there is a good chance you are one of them.

Why Fukuyama? Why Now?

The Setouchi region is anchored, in most travel guides, by Hiroshima and Miyajima to the west. These are extraordinary places, and they belong on every itinerary. But the traveler who limits themselves to Hiroshima city will miss what makes Setouchi truly special: the interplay of rural stillness and coastal drama that unfolds when you venture just a little further east.

Fukuyama — a compact city straddling Hiroshima and Okayama prefectures, served by the Shinkansen — is the gateway to this interplay. Within an easy radius sit:

  • Tomonoura (車で25分 / 25 min by car): A preserved port town from the Edo period, believed to have inspired Hayao Miyazaki's Ponyo
  • Onomichi (車で35分 / 35 min): A city of steep lanes and temple cats, the eastern gateway of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route
  • Miyajima (車で1時間30分 / 90 min): Home to the iconic floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine
  • Kurashiki (車で50分 / 50 min): Okayama's historic canal district, with one of Japan's finest private art museums
  • Shimanami Kaido (起点まで車で40分 / 40 min to the start): The world's most celebrated cycling route, threading across six islands between Honshu and Shikoku

No other point in Setouchi puts you so close to so many of these destinations simultaneously. And 15 minutes from Fukuyama Station — tucked into a valley of bamboo groves and terraced farmland in Kumano-cho — is where this guide begins.

Section 2: Setouchi OMOYA — More Than a Place to Sleep {#section-2}

Setouchi OMOYA (せとうち母家) is not a hotel. It is not an inn. It is not a guesthouse. It is something that has no clean translation in English, which is part of why it feels like such a discovery when you arrive.

OMOYA is a 150-year-old farmhouse, originally built in the agricultural style of Bingo Province (備後国), now lovingly restored by the team at Incrocce Inc. — a professional visual merchandising and spatial design studio based in Fukuyama. Every detail, from the interplay of light and shadow on the century-old beams to the placement of seasonal art installations that change with the turning year, reflects a designer's eye and a historian's respect.

The farmhouse is yours, entirely, for the duration of your stay. There are no other guests, no shared corridors, no breakfast buffet at which you must perform cheerfulness at 7 a.m. Just you, the people you have chosen to be with (up to twelve of them), and a farmhouse that has been waiting 150 years for someone to slow down long enough to appreciate it.

The Five Promises of Setouchi OMOYA

1. Complete Privacy

One group, one farmhouse. OMOYA accepts just one booking at a time, accommodating up to 12 guests across four bedroom suites. Whether you are arriving as a couple, a multigenerational family, or a group of close friends, you will never encounter another guest. The building — its wide entrance hall with its crackling fireside, its professional kitchen, its timber-decked terrace — belongs entirely to you.

2. Spaces Built for the Senses

The entrance hall (doma, 土間) — a cavernous, stone-floored reception room heated by a wood-burning European fireplace — is the heart of the house. Here, on cold evenings, the fire snaps and the beams glow amber, and conversation comes easily. The kitchen is a working chef's kitchen, equipped with professional-grade appliances and stocked with the well water that flows beneath the Kumano hillside. Cooking here — with local Bingo beef, wild-caught seafood, or vegetables from the surrounding fields — is itself an experience, not a chore.

Beyond the main house, a private wooden deck faces the bamboo grove. On clear nights, the stars over Kumano are extraordinary. A tent sauna is available as an optional add-on, with the cold plunge pool fed by the same artesian well water that supplies the kitchen.

3. The Bamboo Bath

OMOYA's semi-outdoor bathroom is among its most celebrated features, appearing again and again in guest reviews. Immersing yourself in warm water while the bamboo moves in the night breeze, the sound of the forest replacing the sound of the city — this is precisely the kind of sensory counterbalance that slow travel promises and so rarely delivers.

4. Seasonal Experiences

OMOYA is not a static backdrop; it is a living property in a landscape that shifts with the seasons.

  • Spring: Bamboo shoot (takenoko) foraging in the grove that surrounds the house
  • Early Summer: Sea kayaking on the Setouchi coast, and the blue of the Seto Inland Sea at its most brilliant
  • Autumn: Forest walks through the turning maples of Kumano-cho
  • Winter: Evenings by the fireplace, and the deeply comforting pleasure of nabe (hot pot) made with locally foraged ingredients

The honey harvesting experience is available across multiple seasons. OMOYA keeps its own hives on the property as part of its satoyama conservation work, and guests can participate in extracting the golden honey — a quiet, meditative activity that reconnects even the most urban visitor with the rhythms of the natural world.

5. Pets Are Family Here

Up to three dogs are welcome at OMOYA, regardless of size. The grounds include a large garden that functions as a natural dog run, and a dedicated paw-washing station ensures that muddy adventures don't follow your companions indoors. For pet owners who have spent years compromising on accommodation quality because of their animals, OMOYA represents something close to a revelation.

"We have been traveling with our two large dogs for years, and we have never found a place that felt like it was designed with us — and them — in mind. At OMOYA, the dogs were as relaxed as we were. That says everything." — Guest review

Section 3: The Perfect 4-Day / 3-Night Itinerary {#section-3}

The following itinerary is designed for a first-time visitor to Setouchi arriving with 3 nights at Setouchi OMOYA as the base. It is built around the principles of slow travel: unhurried mornings, deep engagement with one or two places per day, and long evenings at the farmhouse that allow the day's experiences to settle.

All distances and travel times are from Setouchi OMOYA in Kumano-cho, Fukuyama.

A note on transport: The Setouchi countryside rewards those who travel by car. We strongly recommend renting a vehicle at Fukuyama Station (10 min to OMOYA) or Hiroshima Airport (approx. 60 min to OMOYA). See the Getting Here section for details.

Day 1 — Arrival & Satoyama Immersion

Morning / Afternoon: Arrival at Setouchi OMOYA

Check-in opens at 15:00. If you are arriving from Tokyo by Shinkansen, the journey to Fukuyama Station takes approximately 3 hours 45 minutes; from Osaka, under 1 hour. From Hiroshima Airport, the drive east along Route 2 takes roughly 60 minutes.

Allow yourself to arrive slowly. Before unpacking, walk the property. The bamboo grove that borders the south side of the house produces a particular quality of light in the late afternoon — green-filtered, soft, with long shadows — that is worth sitting with for a while.

Late Afternoon: Satoyama Walk

The hills and lanes of Kumano-cho are best explored on foot in the hour before dusk. The ancient temple Joukokuji (常国寺), known locally as "the萩 (hagi) temple," is a 10-minute walk from the property and holds architectural treasures recognized as important cultural properties of Hiroshima Prefecture. Its silence, at the end of a travel day, is restorative.

Evening: Fireplace Dinner & Stargazing

OMOYA's kitchen is fully equipped for self-catering. For your first night, we recommend picking up provisions at a supermarket near Fukuyama Station before driving out (the nearest convenience store is approximately 5 minutes away). Alternatively, the local hot pot (nabe) plan with seasonal ingredients can be arranged in advance.

After dinner, the deck is where the evening really begins. On clear nights — and Kumano-cho, sheltered from coastal fog by the inland hills, has many — the Milky Way is visible. Bring a blanket. Take your time.

Day 2 — Tomonoura: The Town That Inspired Ponyo

Distance from OMOYA: 25 min by car

There is a moment, walking along Tomonoura's harbor, when the town's visual logic becomes clear: the wooden warehouses angled toward the water, the stone seawalls worn smooth by centuries of fishermen's hands, the small islands arranged in the bay like a painter's composition. Hayao Miyazaki, who stayed here while developing Ponyo, understood it at once. He bought a house.

Morning: The Harbor Town on Foot

Begin at the harbor front and walk south along the old funa-yado (boat inn) quarter. The preserved streetscape is among the most intact Edo-period port landscapes in Japan. The small hill of Taishoji Temple offers the best elevated view of the bay and the islands beyond.

Must-See in Tomonoura:

  • Fukuzen-ji Temple & Taichoro Pavilion — A famous viewing room used by Korean diplomatic missions in the Edo period; the view is unchanged
  • Ioji Temple — Dedicated to the safe passage of sailors, with an ancient camphor tree
  • Edo-era Seawalls — Walk the original stone breakwaters that have held back the Seto Inland Sea for 300 years

Lunch: Tai Ryori (Sea Bream Cuisine)

Tomonoura has been famous for its sea bream since the Nara period (8th century). The local specialty is tai-zuke (sea bream marinated in soy and sesame) served over rice. Several small restaurants along the harbor serve this dish. Arrive by noon to secure a table.

Afternoon: Sensui-jima Island

A 5-minute ferry from Tomonoura's harbor brings you to Sensui-jima, a small island with a circular hiking trail, dramatic coastal rock formations, and swimming beaches in summer. The ferry departs every 30 minutes.

Evening: Return to OMOYA; Bamboo Bath

Return before dark to allow time for the bamboo bath before dinner. The contrast — salt air and sea light still on your skin, then the hush of the bamboo grove — is one of those combinations that explains, without requiring further explanation, why you are here.

→ Deep dive: A Complete Guide to Visiting Tomonoura — The Studio Ghibli Town Near Hiroshima (Cluster Article 1)

Day 3 — Choose Your Adventure: Shimanami Kaido or Onomichi

Option A: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido (Recommended for active travelers)

Distance to Onomichi (start point): 35 min by car

The Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道) is Japan's most celebrated cycling route — 70 km of bridges and coastal roads connecting six islands between Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture and Imabari in Ehime, Shikoku. National Geographic Traveler has named it one of the world's top cycling destinations.

For a day-trip from OMOYA, the recommended approach is to drive to Onomichi, rent a bicycle from the Giant Store Onomichi (open from 8:00; reservation advised), and cycle as far as Setoda on Ikuchi-jima (approx. 30 km, 3 hours at a comfortable pace), then return by ferry to Onomichi.

Highlights along the route:

  • Innoshima Bridge — The first major suspension bridge, with views back to the Onomichi coastline
  • Innoshima Suigun Castle — A reconstructed castle honoring the legendary Murakami Pirates who ruled these waters in the 16th century
  • Ikuchi-jima's lemon groves — The island is famous for its citrus, and roadside stands sell lemon juice, lemon candy, and lemon ice cream
  • Kosanji Temple on Ikuchi-jima — An extravagant complex of art and architecture set into the hillside, worth an hour of exploration

→ Deep dive: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido — A Day Trip Guide from Fukuyama (Cluster Article 2)

Option B: Onomichi — Cats, Temples & Noodles (Recommended for a more relaxed pace)

Onomichi is a city built on a steep hillside that drops directly to the water. It is famous for three things: its network of small temples connected by a hillside path, its cats (many; benevolent; decorative), and its ramen — a dark soy broth with back-fat, unique to this city.

Morning: The Temple Walk (Ropeway to Senkoji Park)

Take the ropeway from central Onomichi up to Senkoji Park for panoramic views over the city and the islands of the Setouchi. From here, the Sando (temple path) winds downhill through 25 temples in approximately 2.5 km. Each temple has a distinct personality; none requires more than 15 minutes, and together they constitute one of the most atmospheric urban walks in Japan.

Lunch: Onomichi Ramen

The four or five Onomichi ramen shops immediately below Senkoji Park are among the most authentically local in the city. Arrive before noon to avoid queues.

Afternoon: The Alley of Cats & The Old Town

The cat alley (neko no hosomichi) that runs parallel to the temple path is a genuine institution, with cat-themed shops, cat-shaped manhole covers, and, reliably, the actual cats themselves. The old town below — bookshops, kissaten coffee shops, cinema memorabilia — is an ideal place for an unstructured afternoon.

Day 4 — Miyajima or Kurashiki: Choose Your Finale

Option A: Miyajima (Hiroshima direction; 90 min from OMOYA)

Itsukushima Shrine's floating torii gate is one of Japan's three canonical views. The island is extraordinarily beautiful. It is also, particularly between 10:00 and 15:00, very crowded. The recommendation: arrive before 8:30 (the ferries from Miyajimaguchi run from before 7:00), walk the back trails to Mt. Misen (535m; 1.5–2 hours ascent) while the day-trippers are still at the shrine, and descend via the ropeway.

Insider tip: The sacred deer of Miyajima roam freely and are entirely accustomed to human presence. They are charming. They will also, with great calm, eat your map, your shrine pamphlet, and any paper-based item within reach.

Option B: Kurashiki (Okayama direction; 50 min from OMOYA)

Kurashiki's Bikan Historical Quarter is one of the few places in Japan where white-walled Edo-period warehouses (kura) line a willow-draped canal intact and undisturbed. The Ohara Museum of Art, founded in 1930, houses one of Japan's finest collections of Western art in an unlikely setting.

After Kurashiki, the route to Okayama Station (30 min by train) or Hiroshima Airport (via expressway) is straightforward for onward journeys.

Section 4: Seasonal Highlights — When to Visit {#section-4}

Setouchi's mild climate means there is genuinely no bad time to visit. Each season offers its own distinct character at OMOYA.

Spring (March–May)

The bamboo grove produces its annual flush of takenoko (bamboo shoots) from late March through April. Guests are welcome to join the foraging — a meditative activity that also supports the maintenance of the grove as part of OMOYA's satoyama conservation work. The surrounding hills bloom with cherry blossoms in late March; Tomonoura's harbor framed by sakura is among the area's most beautiful spring scenes.

The Setouchi coast in May, with its clear skies and gentle winds, is perfect for sea kayaking and Shimanami Kaido cycling.

Summer (June–August)

Early June brings fireflies to the stream below the property — a spectacle that most urban Japanese have never witnessed in their lifetimes, let alone international visitors. The Tomo no Ura Fireworks Festival in late July lights up the bay with reflections in the still water.

Summer is peak season at Miyajima and Onomichi; an early start is essential. The OMOYA deck and garden are at their best after dark, when the heat of the day has lifted.

Autumn (September–November)

The most underrated season for Setouchi travel. Crowds thin considerably after mid-September, while the weather remains warm and dry. The maple forests of inland Hiroshima and Okayama turn in late October; the ridge trails above Kumano-cho offer exceptional foliage views.

Autumn is also the peak season for Setouchi oysters (kaki), which are farmed throughout the sheltered waters of the inland sea. No visit to the region in autumn is complete without eating them grilled over charcoal at one of the small harbor-front stalls.

Winter (December–February)

Winter is, counterintuitively, high season for international visitors to Setouchi — a fact confirmed by Hoshino Resorts' analysis of booking patterns. The reasons are clear: crowds are at their annual minimum, accommodation prices remain high (reflecting quality, not compensation for visitors), and the atmosphere at OMOYA — fireside evenings, the bamboo bath in cold air, hot pot with locally foraged ingredients — is at its most compelling.

The winter sea is extraordinarily clear. Tomonoura on a cold, bright winter morning, with the fishing boats still in the harbor, is a different and deeper experience than its summer self.

Section 5: Getting Here & Getting Around {#section-5}

Arriving at Setouchi OMOYA

Address: Setouchi OMOYA / せとうち母家 Kuno-cho hei 900, Fukuyama-shi, Hiroshima 720-0411

By Shinkansen (Recommended)

Fukuyama Station is served by the JR Sanyo Shinkansen. Journey times:

  • Tokyo → Fukuyama: approx. 3 hours 45 min (Nozomi)
  • Osaka → Fukuyama: approx. 55 min (Nozomi)
  • Hiroshima → Fukuyama: approx. 17 min (Nozomi)
  • Hakata (Fukuoka) → Fukuyama: approx. 1 hour 5 min (Nozomi)

From Fukuyama Station, rent a car (multiple rental agencies within the station building) and drive to OMOYA: approximately 15 minutes.

By Air

  • Hiroshima Airport (HIJ): The closest major airport. From the airport, OMOYA is approximately 60 minutes by car via Route 2 (no expressway required). Car rental is available at the airport.
  • Okayama Airport (OKJ): Approximately 80 minutes to OMOYA by car. Served by domestic routes from Tokyo, Sapporo, and Fukuoka.
  • Osaka (Kansai/Itami) or Tokyo (Haneda/Narita): Fly to Hiroshima or Okayama, then drive.

From Hiroshima City

Drive east on the San-yo Expressway (Hiroshima → Fukuyama West IC: approx. 50 min), then 20 min to OMOYA. Alternatively, Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Fukuyama (17 min) + car rental.

Getting Around the Region

A rental car is strongly recommended for guests staying at OMOYA. The surrounding attractions — Tomonoura, Onomichi, Miyajima, Shimanami Kaido, Kurashiki — are accessible by public transport, but a car transforms the experience: you can leave early, take detours, and arrive at Tomonoura harbor before the tour buses.

Major rental car companies (Toyota Rent-a-Car, Nippon Rent-a-Car, Times Car Rental) are all available at Fukuyama Station. International driving licenses are accepted in Japan.

OMOYA provides complimentary bicycles for guests who wish to explore the immediate surroundings of Kumano-cho at a slower pace.

Section 6: Stay with Purpose — How Your Visit Helps Preserve Japan's Satoyama {#section-6}

Satoyama (里山) — literally, "village mountain" — refers to the managed landscapes of hills, forests, and fields that historically surrounded Japanese rural settlements. These landscapes are not wilderness; they are the product of centuries of human cultivation and care. And like so many traditional Japanese practices, they are under threat.

Across Japan, as rural populations decline and agricultural land is abandoned, the satoyama is reverting to unmanaged scrub. The bamboo groves that once provided timber, shoots, and craft materials are expanding unchecked into farmland. The fields that once supported local food systems are going fallow.

OMOYA was founded as a response to this.

In 2015, the founders of Incrocce Inc. began the slow work of restoring the satoyama surrounding the Kumano farmhouse: clearing invasive bamboo, replanting native species, establishing the honey bee colony that produces Setouchi Honey, and creating the conditions for the annual bamboo shoot harvest in which guests participate.

When you stay at OMOYA, a portion of the accommodation fee directly supports this ongoing conservation work. The satoyama you walk through on your evening stroll, the honey you taste at breakfast, the bamboo that frames your bath — these are not decorative. They are the living results of sustained, deliberate care.

The bamboo shoot foraging experience, the honey harvesting, the opportunity to observe and participate in the maintenance of the property's grounds: these are not performances of rural life for tourist consumption. They are the actual work of satoyama conservation, and your participation — your presence, your attention, your appreciation — is part of what makes it viable.

This is slow travel at its most meaningful: not just moving through a landscape, but briefly, genuinely belonging to it.

Section 7: Frequently Asked Questions {#section-7}

How many guests can stay at Setouchi OMOYA? OMOYA accommodates up to 12 guests (ages 6 and above) in four bedroom suites. Children under school age are welcome as additional guests (no extra charge, co-sleeping with adults). The entire property is reserved exclusively for your group; there are no other guests.

Can I bring my dog? Yes. OMOYA welcomes up to three dogs of any size. The grounds include a large garden that can be used as a dog run, and a dedicated paw-washing station is provided at the entrance. Please review the pet policy on the official website before booking.

Is English spoken at Setouchi OMOYA? OMOYA uses a self-check-in system, so you will not require Japanese language skills at arrival. Written instructions are provided in English. For questions or special requests, the management team is available via email and can communicate in English.

What is the nearest Shinkansen station? Fukuyama Station, served by the JR Sanyo Shinkansen, is approximately 15 minutes by car from OMOYA. Hiroshima Station (the nearest large city hub) is 17 minutes from Fukuyama by Shinkansen.

Is there Wi-Fi? Yes. High-speed Wi-Fi is available throughout the property.

How many cars can park at OMOYA? The property has parking for up to 6 vehicles.

What meals are provided? OMOYA is a self-catering property. The kitchen is fully equipped with professional-grade appliances, cookware, and tableware. Optional meal plans — including the local hot pot plan with seasonal Setouchi ingredients — can be arranged in advance. The nearest supermarket is approximately 10 minutes by car; the nearest convenience store is approximately 5 minutes.

What is the check-in / check-out time? Check-in: 15:00–19:00. Check-out: 11:00. Self-check-in (keyless entry) is available.

Can OMOYA be used for events — weddings, corporate retreats, workshops? Yes. OMOYA has hosted weddings, yoga retreats, corporate seminars, and art exhibitions. For event inquiries, please contact the management team directly at info@setouchiomoya.com.

What is the cancellation policy? Please check the current policy on the booking platform (Chillnn or Ikyu.com) at time of reservation.

Book Your Stay

Official Website: setouchiomoya.com Reservations (Chillnn): chillnn.com/17689b2d20c282 Premium Reservations (Ikyu.com): ikyu.com/00050621 Enquiries: info@setouchiomoya.com | Tel. 084-959-0747

Setouchi OMOYA is a 10-15 minute drive from Fukuyama Station (Sanyo Shinkansen). Open year-round. One group, always.

Explore Further: Related Guides

→ [A Complete Guide to Visiting Tomonoura — The Ghibli Town Near Hiroshima](#) → [Cycling the Shimanami Kaido: A Day Trip Guide from Fukuyama](#) → [Traveling with Dogs in Japan: A Pet-Friendly Guide to the Hiroshima Countryside](#) → [The Best Day Trips from Fukuyama: Miyajima, Onomichi, Kurashiki & More](#) → [Farmhouse Stay vs. Ryokan vs. Hotel: Choosing the Right Accommodation in Japan](#) → [Setouchi Through the Seasons: When to Visit Hiroshima's Countryside](#)

INCROCCE
前へ

A Complete Guide to Visiting Tomonoura — The Edo-Era Port Town That Inspired *Ponyo*